Postscript Tuesday 16th June Lewes
Pilgrim returned home safe, tanned and sound. Now sleeping in own bed .....
Tuesday, 16 June 2009
Friday, 12 June 2009
SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA End of the Pilgrimage
Friday 12th June Santiago de Compostela
Oh bliss! In Santiago at a superb open air fish restaurant eating, at last, pulpo.
Left early for the last 30 surprisingly hard miles into SDC. Within 3 hours, in blistering sun we had a bed, bus booked, bike wrapping arranged and cold beer in hand. Absolute bliss! Santiago is a fantastic city, full of pilgrims of course but with a life of its own. Narrow streets leading to delightful squares, fountains and cafes everywhere. And finally the cathedral, so grand and so busy that we ignored it at first, but we are going to give it a go this evening. Rest day tomorrow - how strange.
Thursday, 11 June 2009
Wednesday 11th June Ribadiso
Every day is different - blue skies at last, brilliant green celtic landscape, stone walls, standing stones, chicken filled farmyards, Pushed bikes a significant distance up a stream. Pilgrims thick on the ground.
Pushing on to Santiago de Compostella.
Grilled cepes, jamon, sauteed fish and almond tart for 9 euro lunch. Cornwall riding in 'Budgie Smuggler' lycra.
Now in Ribadiso, 25 miles from Santiago.
Mdme. Blogmaster asked why they didn't stop at Melide which is halfway to Santiago from last night.
Answer: Didn't like Albuerge at Melide. Pressed on another 9 miles to find this Albuerge full, so we are 'virtual' camping. 2 hour ride to Santiago tomorrow.
Every day is different - blue skies at last, brilliant green celtic landscape, stone walls, standing stones, chicken filled farmyards, Pushed bikes a significant distance up a stream. Pilgrims thick on the ground.
Pushing on to Santiago de Compostella.
Grilled cepes, jamon, sauteed fish and almond tart for 9 euro lunch. Cornwall riding in 'Budgie Smuggler' lycra.
Now in Ribadiso, 25 miles from Santiago.
Mdme. Blogmaster asked why they didn't stop at Melide which is halfway to Santiago from last night.
Answer: Didn't like Albuerge at Melide. Pressed on another 9 miles to find this Albuerge full, so we are 'virtual' camping. 2 hour ride to Santiago tomorrow.
Wednesday, 10 June 2009
Wednesday 10th June continued Sarria
Well, today didn't disappointl 20 miles of almost continuous climb, the last 6 very steep and the final 2 pushing the bikes up a rocky goat path, drizzling all the while. Occasional staggering views through clouds. Some almost ripe wild strawberries.
A heartstarting coffee at the top then a descent through freezing horizontal rain down to Tricastella for 9 euro blowout lunch.
Now in Sarria after 50 demanding miles. Santiago de Compostella now in our sights.
Well, today didn't disappointl 20 miles of almost continuous climb, the last 6 very steep and the final 2 pushing the bikes up a rocky goat path, drizzling all the while. Occasional staggering views through clouds. Some almost ripe wild strawberries.
A heartstarting coffee at the top then a descent through freezing horizontal rain down to Tricastella for 9 euro blowout lunch.
Now in Sarria after 50 demanding miles. Santiago de Compostella now in our sights.
Wednesday 10th June Pedrafita do cebriero
Midday: text from Nick Cornwall
Columbus? Armstrong? Scott? Livingstone? Pah! Lightweights!
We have ridden, pushed, had a pack of mountain dogs run a paw over us, tramped up streams, been in and out of mist, rain, cloud and we have made it to O'Cebreiro!
Pooped but perky.
As the book says: El Camino es tempo de meditacion interior, no itenerario touristico. Same for us, only a bit more swearing.
Downhill now to sun and lunch of hot octopus.
Midday: text from Nick Cornwall
Columbus? Armstrong? Scott? Livingstone? Pah! Lightweights!
We have ridden, pushed, had a pack of mountain dogs run a paw over us, tramped up streams, been in and out of mist, rain, cloud and we have made it to O'Cebreiro!
Pooped but perky.
As the book says: El Camino es tempo de meditacion interior, no itenerario touristico. Same for us, only a bit more swearing.
Downhill now to sun and lunch of hot octopus.
Tuesday, 9 June 2009
Tuesday 9th June 5,000ft!! Villafranca del Biertzo
Well, we killed the first beast, Cruz de Ferro at 5,000ft. Wild cloud shrouded mountains covered in heather and brilliant white broom, followed by a 10 mile downhill swoop. Now at Villafranca del Biertzo with the real killer O'Cebreiro to come - 2,500 climb. Reward for survivors is pulpo a la Galega in Melida at the bottom.
Communal supper in the alberge tonight as the clouds swirl - where is the sun?
8.30 am text from Nick Cornwall Cruz de Ferro
5000 feet and about to descend other side. Mist rain but 2 glowing cojones....
Well, we killed the first beast, Cruz de Ferro at 5,000ft. Wild cloud shrouded mountains covered in heather and brilliant white broom, followed by a 10 mile downhill swoop. Now at Villafranca del Biertzo with the real killer O'Cebreiro to come - 2,500 climb. Reward for survivors is pulpo a la Galega in Melida at the bottom.
Communal supper in the alberge tonight as the clouds swirl - where is the sun?
8.30 am text from Nick Cornwall Cruz de Ferro
5000 feet and about to descend other side. Mist rain but 2 glowing cojones....
Monday, 8 June 2009
Rabanal Monday 8th June
Rabanal tonight, at almost 4000ft and pretty nippy. We have climbed most of today. Hard work after the meseta but good practice for tomorrow's highest climb of the Camino at 5,000 ft.
Wonderful wild lavender fields today, interspersed with broom and heather. Now looking for a warm bar/restaurant for high carb supper.
(Further post at 8.00 pm) I wouldn't say it's cold tonight, but everyone is going to bed in all their clothes.... I replied that it was obviously time for some serious male bonding and that they should snuggle up together. However Nick has just replied Not in a single bunk!!!
Let us hope they get some sleep tonight, a good breakfast and feel ready to tackle the big climb.
Note from Mdme. Blogmaster: When asked if tomorrow's 5,000 ft climb is going to be harder than the Pyranees, the reply comes back "Yes it's higher but more brutish" !!
e-mail received from Nick C. this evening Adds further colour to their current situation:
Rabanal tonight, at almost 4000ft and pretty nippy. We have climbed most of today. Hard work after the meseta but good practice for tomorrow's highest climb of the Camino at 5,000 ft.
Wonderful wild lavender fields today, interspersed with broom and heather. Now looking for a warm bar/restaurant for high carb supper.
(Further post at 8.00 pm) I wouldn't say it's cold tonight, but everyone is going to bed in all their clothes.... I replied that it was obviously time for some serious male bonding and that they should snuggle up together. However Nick has just replied Not in a single bunk!!!
Let us hope they get some sleep tonight, a good breakfast and feel ready to tackle the big climb.
Note from Mdme. Blogmaster: When asked if tomorrow's 5,000 ft climb is going to be harder than the Pyranees, the reply comes back "Yes it's higher but more brutish" !!
e-mail received from Nick C. this evening Adds further colour to their current situation:
4000 feet up and flippin freezing! Wet start, then off road and
rocky. Sopa de pescado for lunch in a cafe in Astorga that sold
canaries on the side then 2 hour climb to Rabanal. Brrrr!
Not enough clothes and the beds do not have blankets so we will sleep in the bike gear tonight methinks. Climb to 5000 feet after breakfast and descend to 2000 for the evening so look forward to getting fingers working again moro.
About to eat 4 times our body weight in food.Stunning scenery tho - wild lavender, broom, lots of birds, dramatic skies, too many headwinds and a great way to spend a Mondayx Nick
Capt. Calves says he will call tomorrow - hopefully I will hear that the Pilgrims have made it over the top and are comfortably and safely down the other side ...
Sunday, 7 June 2009
Sunday 7th June Mazarife
From church roof to hippy hell hole - now in Mazarife, 15 miles beyond Leon. Viking longboat in garden, entire oeuvre of Freddie Mercury at max volume.
Fine sunday lunch in Leon, photo with chef, tour of old city. Cathedral locked but marvelous. San Isidro open. Lunchtime caberet - 2 black youths with big bags sprinted across the square, pursued by a cop car. They disappeared, then one youth re appeared and shot back through a narrow lane, leaving baffled cops.
Another very walkable city. Some hills tomorrow.!
From church roof to hippy hell hole - now in Mazarife, 15 miles beyond Leon. Viking longboat in garden, entire oeuvre of Freddie Mercury at max volume.
Fine sunday lunch in Leon, photo with chef, tour of old city. Cathedral locked but marvelous. San Isidro open. Lunchtime caberet - 2 black youths with big bags sprinted across the square, pursued by a cop car. They disappeared, then one youth re appeared and shot back through a narrow lane, leaving baffled cops.
Another very walkable city. Some hills tomorrow.!
Saturday, 6 June 2009
Saturday 6th June Sahagun
Sahagun tonight, sleeping in the roof above Inglesia de la Trinidad. Varied day as usual; wedding in Carrion de los Candes - palomino horse with black carriage, guests in medieval costume - a funeral here tonight. And 10 miles of buttock busting rocky Camino in the middle. Both fit.
An aside from Mdme. Blogmaster:
e-mail from Sancho Panza reveals that a ghastly night was spent in a Pilgrim dorm last night - serial snorrers.....
"One had the rare talent of being able to snore when sleeping face down; try this at home when you have a quiet moment. The facial energy necessary to snore in this position for 6+ hours is enormous.
Staying in the roof of a huge old church for the night.
One step nearer to heaven (or so I am told) x Nic"
Sahagun tonight, sleeping in the roof above Inglesia de la Trinidad. Varied day as usual; wedding in Carrion de los Candes - palomino horse with black carriage, guests in medieval costume - a funeral here tonight. And 10 miles of buttock busting rocky Camino in the middle. Both fit.
An aside from Mdme. Blogmaster:
e-mail from Sancho Panza reveals that a ghastly night was spent in a Pilgrim dorm last night - serial snorrers.....
"One had the rare talent of being able to snore when sleeping face down; try this at home when you have a quiet moment. The facial energy necessary to snore in this position for 6+ hours is enormous.
Staying in the roof of a huge old church for the night.
One step nearer to heaven (or so I am told) x Nic"
Friday, 5 June 2009
Friday 5th June Fromista
We are at Fromista 49 miles from Burgos all on the camino. Great day. First on the Messeta, with huge rolling landscapes and massive skies. Brief downpour late afternoon. Dived into alburgue for a beer. One killer hill but otherwise ok - great team photo!
Having a proper castillian and hoping to be through for 10 pm curfew.
We are at Fromista 49 miles from Burgos all on the camino. Great day. First on the Messeta, with huge rolling landscapes and massive skies. Brief downpour late afternoon. Dived into alburgue for a beer. One killer hill but otherwise ok - great team photo!
Having a proper castillian and hoping to be through for 10 pm curfew.
Thursday, 4 June 2009
Thursday 4th June Burgos
Quiet day in Burgos. Lovely walkable city. We rebuilt Nick Cornwall's bike in a sudden downpour.(Nick C. arrived in Burgos via Bilbao and bus pm). Found Nick a bed then hit the town.
Back on the camino tomorrow, gently because I fell off bike answering Nick's phone call at 0 mph!
(Further text received by Blog master from Nick Cornwall late this pm)
All groovy. Your man in fine lean, bronzed form and cuts a fine dash wearing nuthin but his budgie smugglers .....We roule tomorrow so postings along the way.
(Postings liable to get more ridiculous from now on)
Quiet day in Burgos. Lovely walkable city. We rebuilt Nick Cornwall's bike in a sudden downpour.(Nick C. arrived in Burgos via Bilbao and bus pm). Found Nick a bed then hit the town.
Back on the camino tomorrow, gently because I fell off bike answering Nick's phone call at 0 mph!
(Further text received by Blog master from Nick Cornwall late this pm)
All groovy. Your man in fine lean, bronzed form and cuts a fine dash wearing nuthin but his budgie smugglers .....We roule tomorrow so postings along the way.
(Postings liable to get more ridiculous from now on)
Wednesday, 3 June 2009
Tuesday, 2 June 2009
Monday, 1 June 2009
Monday 1st June Los Arcos 7.30 pm.
Nick's Post: Now at Los Arcos, not many miles but all off road; bit like Firle coach road plus mountains. Will stay on Camino as long as it stays so delightful
I have spoken to Nick tonight now that he has a phone charger! He's having a brilliant time and loving it. He has seen - and will see - so many gorgeous churches and chapels that there is hardly time to take them all in. He is ahead of schedule so has more time to enjoy the villages en route. Today he was mostly off road on the Camino and it is gorgeous. The number of Pilgrims is increasing daily and he has found a bed in the third of three big Alburgue tonight, the first two being full.
He starts early now and does most of the cycling while it's cool.
Eating and drinking is good although the usual Spanish custom pertains - evening meal at 9.00 pm. As the Alburgue and Hostals for Pilgrims close at 10.00pm not much time to savour the meal!
He has sent a text, but I haven't got it! When I do, I will post his own words. (See above)
Monday 1st June 12.30 somewhere beyond Estella
Hola! The vulture did not get me and I found a Vodafone shop. Stayed last night in Estella, great little town about the size of Lewes only much hotter. Had a near perfect day yesterday. 2 superb Romanesque churches and most of the hills sloped the right way. Trying to force myself back on to the Camino with the aid of a beer.
Nick's Post: Now at Los Arcos, not many miles but all off road; bit like Firle coach road plus mountains. Will stay on Camino as long as it stays so delightful
I have spoken to Nick tonight now that he has a phone charger! He's having a brilliant time and loving it. He has seen - and will see - so many gorgeous churches and chapels that there is hardly time to take them all in. He is ahead of schedule so has more time to enjoy the villages en route. Today he was mostly off road on the Camino and it is gorgeous. The number of Pilgrims is increasing daily and he has found a bed in the third of three big Alburgue tonight, the first two being full.
He starts early now and does most of the cycling while it's cool.
Eating and drinking is good although the usual Spanish custom pertains - evening meal at 9.00 pm. As the Alburgue and Hostals for Pilgrims close at 10.00pm not much time to savour the meal!
He has sent a text, but I haven't got it! When I do, I will post his own words. (See above)
Monday 1st June 12.30 somewhere beyond Estella
Hola! The vulture did not get me and I found a Vodafone shop. Stayed last night in Estella, great little town about the size of Lewes only much hotter. Had a near perfect day yesterday. 2 superb Romanesque churches and most of the hills sloped the right way. Trying to force myself back on to the Camino with the aid of a beer.
Monday 1st June ???
My phone now working, but no message from Nick so presume his phone has run out of juice. When I get any further news, I will post more info. Meanwhile, I hope he is still cycling and that he is taking care in the very hot sun - 30 plus.
The map is now correct and the placemarks correct up until Monreal which is the last text I had.
My phone now working, but no message from Nick so presume his phone has run out of juice. When I get any further news, I will post more info. Meanwhile, I hope he is still cycling and that he is taking care in the very hot sun - 30 plus.
The map is now correct and the placemarks correct up until Monreal which is the last text I had.
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