Tuesday, 16 June 2009

Postscript Tuesday 16th June Lewes

Pilgrim returned home safe, tanned and sound. Now sleeping in own bed .....

Friday, 12 June 2009

SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA End of the Pilgrimage

Friday 12th June Santiago de Compostela

Oh bliss! In Santiago at a superb open air fish restaurant eating, at last, pulpo. 

Left early for the last 30 surprisingly hard miles into SDC. Within 3 hours, in blistering sun we had a bed, bus booked, bike wrapping arranged and cold beer in hand. Absolute bliss! Santiago is a fantastic city, full of pilgrims of course but with a life of its own. Narrow streets leading to delightful squares, fountains and cafes everywhere. And finally the cathedral, so grand and so busy that we ignored it at first, but we are going to give it a go this evening. Rest day tomorrow - how strange.

Thursday, 11 June 2009

Wednesday 11th June Ribadiso

Every day is different - blue skies at last, brilliant green celtic landscape, stone walls, standing stones, chicken filled farmyards, Pushed bikes a significant distance up a stream. Pilgrims thick on the ground.

Pushing on to Santiago de Compostella.

Grilled cepes, jamon, sauteed fish and almond tart for 9 euro lunch. Cornwall riding in 'Budgie Smuggler' lycra.

Now in Ribadiso, 25 miles from Santiago.

Mdme. Blogmaster asked why they didn't stop at Melide which is halfway to Santiago from last night.

Answer: Didn't like Albuerge at Melide. Pressed on another 9 miles to find this Albuerge full, so we are 'virtual' camping. 2 hour ride to Santiago tomorrow.

Wednesday, 10 June 2009

Wednesday 10th June continued Sarria

Well, today didn't disappointl 20 miles of almost continuous climb, the last 6 very steep and the final 2 pushing the bikes up a rocky goat path, drizzling all the while. Occasional staggering views through clouds. Some almost ripe wild strawberries.

A heartstarting coffee at the top then a descent through freezing horizontal rain down to Tricastella for 9 euro blowout lunch.

Now in Sarria after 50 demanding miles. Santiago de Compostella now in our sights.
Wednesday 10th June Pedrafita do cebriero

Midday: text from Nick Cornwall

Columbus? Armstrong? Scott? Livingstone? Pah! Lightweights!

We have ridden, pushed, had a pack of mountain dogs run a paw over us, tramped up streams, been in and out of mist, rain, cloud and we have made it to O'Cebreiro!
Pooped but perky.

As the book says: El Camino es tempo de meditacion interior, no itenerario touristico. Same for us, only a bit more swearing.

Downhill now to sun and lunch of hot octopus.

Tuesday, 9 June 2009

Tuesday 9th June 5,000ft!! Villafranca del Biertzo


Well, we killed the first beast, Cruz de Ferro at 5,000ft. Wild cloud shrouded mountains covered in heather and brilliant white broom, followed by a 10 mile downhill swoop. Now at Villafranca del Biertzo with the real killer O'Cebreiro to come - 2,500 climb. Reward for survivors is pulpo a la Galega in Melida at the bottom.

Communal supper in the alberge tonight as the clouds swirl - where is the sun?

8.30 am text from Nick Cornwall Cruz de Ferro

5000 feet and about to descend other side. Mist rain but 2 glowing cojones....



Monday, 8 June 2009

Rabanal Monday 8th June

Rabanal tonight, at almost 4000ft and pretty nippy. We have climbed most of today. Hard work after the meseta but good practice for tomorrow's highest climb of the Camino at 5,000 ft.

Wonderful wild lavender fields today, interspersed with broom and heather. Now looking for a warm bar/restaurant for high carb supper.

(Further post at 8.00 pm) I wouldn't say it's cold tonight, but everyone is going to bed in all their clothes.... I replied that it was obviously time for some serious male bonding and that they should snuggle up together. However Nick has just replied Not in a single bunk!!!
Let us hope they get some sleep tonight, a good breakfast and feel ready to tackle the big climb.

Note from Mdme. Blogmaster: When asked if tomorrow's 5,000 ft climb is going to be harder than the Pyranees, the reply comes back "Yes it's higher but more brutish" !!

e-mail received from Nick C. this evening Adds further colour to their current situation:

4000 feet up and flippin freezing! Wet start, then off road and
rocky. Sopa de pescado for lunch in a cafe in Astorga that sold
canaries on the side then 2 hour climb to Rabanal. Brrrr!

Not enough clothes and the beds do not have blankets so we will sleep in the bike gear tonight methinks. Climb to 5000 feet after breakfast and descend to 2000 for the evening so look forward to getting fingers working again moro.

About to eat 4 times our body weight in food.Stunning scenery tho - wild lavender, broom, lots of birds, dramatic skies, too many headwinds and a great way to spend a Mondayx Nick


Capt. Calves says he will call tomorrow - hopefully I will hear that the Pilgrims have made it over the top and are comfortably and safely down the other side ...

Sunday, 7 June 2009

Sunday 7th June Mazarife

From church roof to hippy hell hole - now in Mazarife, 15 miles beyond Leon. Viking longboat in garden, entire oeuvre of Freddie Mercury at max volume.

Fine sunday lunch in Leon, photo with chef, tour of old city. Cathedral locked but marvelous. San Isidro open. Lunchtime caberet - 2 black youths with big bags sprinted across the square, pursued by a cop car. They disappeared, then one youth re appeared and shot back through a narrow lane, leaving baffled cops.

Another very walkable city. Some hills tomorrow.!

Saturday, 6 June 2009

Saturday 6th June Sahagun

Sahagun tonight, sleeping in the roof above Inglesia de la Trinidad. Varied day as usual; wedding in Carrion de los Candes - palomino horse with black carriage, guests in medieval costume - a funeral here tonight. And 10 miles of buttock busting rocky Camino in the middle. Both fit.

An aside from Mdme. Blogmaster:

e-mail from Sancho Panza reveals that a ghastly night was spent in a Pilgrim dorm last night - serial snorrers.....

"One had the rare talent of being able to snore when sleeping face down; try this at home when you have a quiet moment. The facial energy necessary to snore in this position for 6+ hours is enormous.
Staying in the roof of a huge old church for the night.
One step nearer to heaven (or so I am told) x Nic"

Friday, 5 June 2009

Friday 5th June Fromista

We are at Fromista 49 miles from Burgos all on the camino. Great day. First on the Messeta, with huge rolling landscapes and massive skies. Brief downpour late afternoon. Dived into alburgue for a beer. One killer hill but otherwise ok - great team photo!

Having a proper castillian and hoping to be through for 10 pm curfew.

Thursday, 4 June 2009

Thursday 4th June Burgos

Quiet day in Burgos. Lovely walkable city. We rebuilt Nick Cornwall's bike in a sudden downpour.(Nick C. arrived in Burgos via Bilbao and bus pm). Found Nick a bed then hit the town.
Back on the camino tomorrow, gently because I fell off bike answering Nick's phone call at 0 mph!

(Further text received by Blog master from Nick Cornwall late this pm)

All groovy. Your man in fine lean, bronzed form and cuts a fine dash wearing nuthin but his budgie smugglers .....We roule tomorrow so postings along the way.

(Postings liable to get more ridiculous from now on)

Wednesday, 3 June 2009

Wednesday 3rd June San Juan de Ortega

Tonight I am the guest of the Augustian monastery of San Nicolas at San Juan de Ortega.

I am attending mass at 6 pm (as an observer for the other side) then we share a garlic soup prepared by the priest. 20k from Burgos so poised to swoop.

Tuesday, 2 June 2009

Tuesday 2nd June Najera

I have one of the last places in a 64 bed dorm. Plan to leave before dawn to miss the loo stampede.

Had another good day. Loved Logrono. Despite extreme heat I can still see snow on distant mountains.

60 miles to Burgos.

Monday, 1 June 2009

Monday 1st June Los Arcos 7.30 pm.

Nick's Post: Now at Los Arcos, not many miles but all off road; bit like Firle coach road plus mountains. Will stay on Camino as long as it stays so delightful

I have spoken to Nick tonight now that he has a phone charger! He's having a brilliant time and loving it. He has seen - and will see - so many gorgeous churches and chapels that there is hardly time to take them all in. He is ahead of schedule so has more time to enjoy the villages en route. Today he was mostly off road on the Camino and it is gorgeous. The number of Pilgrims is increasing daily and he has found a bed in the third of three big Alburgue tonight, the first two being full.
He starts early now and does most of the cycling while it's cool.
Eating and drinking is good although the usual Spanish custom pertains - evening meal at 9.00 pm. As the Alburgue and Hostals for Pilgrims close at 10.00pm not much time to savour the meal!
He has sent a text, but I haven't got it! When I do, I will post his own words. (See above)

Monday 1st June 12.30 somewhere beyond Estella

Hola! The vulture did not get me and I found a Vodafone shop. Stayed last night in Estella, great little town about the size of Lewes only much hotter. Had a near perfect day yesterday. 2 superb Romanesque churches and most of the hills sloped the right way. Trying to force myself back on to the Camino with the aid of a beer.


Monday 1st June ???

My phone now working, but no message from Nick so presume his phone has run out of juice. When I get any further news, I will post more info. Meanwhile, I hope he is still cycling and that he is taking care in the very hot sun - 30 plus.

The map is now correct and the placemarks correct up until Monreal which is the last text I had.

Sunday, 31 May 2009

Sunday 31st May   ????

This is the blogmaster, Mdme. Sageomme

Due to stupidity, my phone has run out of money and I can only get more cash on it tomorrow morning.   So, I have no idea where our Pilgrim is.   His phone may also have run out of juice and he has no charger ...... I may retrieve a message tomorrow when I have sorted my phone or I may not!      What a pair of techno incompetents! 

Nick Cornwall is hoping to meet up with the Pilgrim at Bourgos on Thursday.  If there  is no more phone contact until then, we shall have to be patient and await further info.

 

Saturday, 30 May 2009

Saturday 30th May Monreal

Now at Monreal, just short of Pamplona. Frustrating day. Very Hot. Vultures circling......

Friday, 29 May 2009

Friday 29th May Sanguesa

Now in Sanguesa. Hot day - 50 miles. Wonderful 11C church, weird desserted Village.
Going well.


Nick's now down to one bibble on his phone so posts may soon cease! His phone charger went along with the reading glasses, camera etc. in the Toulouse heist. There are few phone shops apparently but I'm sure he'll just get a new one when he can.

Nick Cornwall is planning to join him in Bourgos on 4th June (if he can get to Stansted at 5.00 am - with bike, get bike onto Ryan Air, get train from Bilbao to Bourgos - but Nick is keen as mustard and sure he can do it!) Nick will take out replacement charger and new reading glasses ........

Thursday, 28 May 2009

Thursday continued:

Well, it was a breeze swooping down into Spain. 35mph for the first 8 miles. Lunch in Jaca. Leisurely look round then on 12 miles to Sta Cilia. Fab alburgue with tumble dryer so big clothes wash.
Thursday 28th May 2.00 pm

I DID IT !!! Climbed up very big mountain very slowly - 4 hours climb. Now sitting in Spain with a cafe cortado looking DOWN on the snow.
Downhill all the way now.

Wednesday, 27 May 2009

Wednesday 27 May Borce

Just made it to Borce 6.45 pm and a bed in the gite - I think I would have cried if full. Some very large mountains looming and I have to cycle over them romorrow. Shower, food then bed ....

Tuesday, 26 May 2009

Tuesday 26th May Pau/Lescar

An epic day. 78 miles and 400 miles in total so far. Hills galore. Headwinds and showers but still managed to fit in a few Bastides and a 10 euro lunch. Now in a 35 euro flophouse in Pau/Lescar - pretty tired. Should be back on track if I have a good day tomorrow.

Monday, 25 May 2009

Monday 25th further posting!

I am sitting in the surprising hot evening sun sipping a pastis in front of Auch cathedral. 62 miles this morning but by the time I had lunched and bought a camera it was 4pm. So early start tomorrow to try to make up those lost miles. Bed in Presbytary, but no glasses yet - getting by quite well squinting!
Monday 25th May Auch!!

Oh Auch! Salade paysan, brochette de coeurs du canard et ses frites, glass of rose 11 euros. Bliss !


Sunday, 24 May 2009

Sunday 24th May Still Toulouse!

Things improving - done police statement, got a map, pilgrim passport this evening. Probably staying Toulouse tonight and leave very early tomorrow for Auch.

Spoke to Nick tonight. He is sanguine about his bike bag and losses which included reading glasses, camera and ipod. Luckily he has managed to get a map for the next leg and didn't loose his Spanish maps as they were in his panier. He now has his Pilgrim Passport which he gets stamped as he continues along the Pilgrim Way. It also entitles him to discounts on food and Pilgrim Hostels! He is sleeping in his 40 bed dorm in Catholic Pilgrim Hostel in Toulouse with only 3 walkers for company tonight. He will get up v. early tomorrow and plan to get to Auch tomorrow. Hopefully he'll be able to buy a new pair of reading glasses at some point. A new camera would be nice but he couldn't find a single camera shop in Toulouse!

Saturday, 23 May 2009

Saturday 23 May Toulouse

Now sitting on my little iron bed, alone in a catholic dorm for 40, under the protection of Christe Roi. A rest day in Toulouse sight-seeing, eating in the splendid market and shopping for the things I have 'misplaced' along the way. Also caught a fine exhibition of aboriginal art at the Abbatoirs (The Art Museum).

Tomorrow back on the road to Auch. Deo volente as we say.

I then spoke to Nick on the phone (he's been gone a week) and bugger it - while he was speaking to me, someone nicked his bike bag. He has passport, phone and wallet, but his bike bag contained all his maps, journal (with all he had researched for the route) and camera. So, pretty disasterous. Tomorrow is Sunday which means it may be difficult to buy maps. We fear he will waste at least half a day sorting this if he even can. So, will keep you posted. Such a shame as he has done 240 miles so far and was thoroughly enjoying his trip.

Friday, 22 May 2009

Friday 22nd May Toulouse

A day of canals. La Rigole and then the whopper, La Canal du Midi. Quiet at first through deserted farmland, a kingfisher and bounding deer for company. Nearer Tolulouse much busier with picnicing families and roller bladers. Bike fixed - 3 broken spokes.
Spartan bed in youth hostal, meal booked.
Toulouse wonderful, a pleasure to stroll and bike. Wish I could bring back some of the goodies!

Thursday, 21 May 2009

Thursday 21st May Revel

Hard to explain how a french beer after a day in the saddle can taste so exquisite. I am sitting in the square at Revel, so good progress. Great morning's riding down out of the mountains to Castres, where my day fell apart - it was closed for a fete religieuse. Cycled on, no beds in Soreze, but bagged last bunk in serious pilgrim hostel in Ravel. Beautiful peaches and tomatoes with flavour for lunch. Toulouse demain.

Wednesday, 20 May 2009

Wed. 20th May Salvetat sur-Agout

Today reptiles: as I sat admiring the view and slicing my Fourme D’ambert for my picnic, I realised that there was a lizard on my shoulder sharing my enjoyment. It was a fitting reward for my epic 5 mile uphill ride along forestry trails, sweating and cursing all the way. But the views my dear ... Also nearly rode over a very large snake coiled at the side of the road. Gite full so staying with Myriam & Valentin at La Pergola, a charmante bar avec chambers. Steak Frites I think. Up in mountain air, so fresh and sunny first thing, getting hotter thru the day. 19 degrees now and breezy.

Tuesday, 19 May 2009

You will be glad to know that at 18.49 Nick texted me that I have a bed. I have a beer. All's well.
A real Pilgrim’s progress of a day; chain broke on a remote mountain road, helped by French cyclist, 2 mile walk, 25 k ride to CLOSED bike shop. 4 k ride to Intersport. New chain which I finally cut and fitted. Nearly through a 5 mile uphill to St. Gervais s M. Beer first then find a bed. Lovin it!!

Monday, 18 May 2009

Monday 18th May

A day of hills - 3 of them, average length 3 miles, as steep as Ditchling Beacon. But the views were stupendous, plus roses, honeysuyckle and gorse everywhere. Even the vines are fresh green. This gite has a pool - very tempting! More (bigger) hills tomorrow.

On the road

Nick's text Sunday 17th May evening: Sitting at cafe table beside monatery at St. Gulhem bidet of wine to hand. Monpellier is delightful. Only 30 miles on bike today so feeling fine. Bigger test tomorrow. Scorchio this pm and more to come.
So, so far so good!!

Saturday, 16 May 2009

Day One - leaving home

Nick set off this morning at 8.45 am after a hearty breakfast and a fond and tearful farewell from his three women. (He has the photos to prove it on his camera) I have had one message saying that he was on the bus and approaching Dover at 2.30... Hopefully, the next post will be from Bike Boy - on the road somewhere in southern France. Cheers Mdme. Sagehomme

Friday, 8 May 2009

Ready to roll

One week to go, bike fixed including new brake pads and extra water bottle.
Still to buy bike shoes and bits and pieces.
What book to take? it's got to be light (weight), not too intellectually challenging after a hard day's ride, capable of being read in small chunks.
I think I am as fit as I am going to be this time round so I will probably take it easy this last week, just concentrate on the last minute bits and bobs.
Buen camino!