Postscript Tuesday 16th June Lewes
Pilgrim returned home safe, tanned and sound. Now sleeping in own bed .....
Tuesday, 16 June 2009
Friday, 12 June 2009
SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA End of the Pilgrimage
Friday 12th June Santiago de Compostela
Oh bliss! In Santiago at a superb open air fish restaurant eating, at last, pulpo.
Left early for the last 30 surprisingly hard miles into SDC. Within 3 hours, in blistering sun we had a bed, bus booked, bike wrapping arranged and cold beer in hand. Absolute bliss! Santiago is a fantastic city, full of pilgrims of course but with a life of its own. Narrow streets leading to delightful squares, fountains and cafes everywhere. And finally the cathedral, so grand and so busy that we ignored it at first, but we are going to give it a go this evening. Rest day tomorrow - how strange.
Thursday, 11 June 2009
Wednesday 11th June Ribadiso
Every day is different - blue skies at last, brilliant green celtic landscape, stone walls, standing stones, chicken filled farmyards, Pushed bikes a significant distance up a stream. Pilgrims thick on the ground.
Pushing on to Santiago de Compostella.
Grilled cepes, jamon, sauteed fish and almond tart for 9 euro lunch. Cornwall riding in 'Budgie Smuggler' lycra.
Now in Ribadiso, 25 miles from Santiago.
Mdme. Blogmaster asked why they didn't stop at Melide which is halfway to Santiago from last night.
Answer: Didn't like Albuerge at Melide. Pressed on another 9 miles to find this Albuerge full, so we are 'virtual' camping. 2 hour ride to Santiago tomorrow.
Every day is different - blue skies at last, brilliant green celtic landscape, stone walls, standing stones, chicken filled farmyards, Pushed bikes a significant distance up a stream. Pilgrims thick on the ground.
Pushing on to Santiago de Compostella.
Grilled cepes, jamon, sauteed fish and almond tart for 9 euro lunch. Cornwall riding in 'Budgie Smuggler' lycra.
Now in Ribadiso, 25 miles from Santiago.
Mdme. Blogmaster asked why they didn't stop at Melide which is halfway to Santiago from last night.
Answer: Didn't like Albuerge at Melide. Pressed on another 9 miles to find this Albuerge full, so we are 'virtual' camping. 2 hour ride to Santiago tomorrow.
Wednesday, 10 June 2009
Wednesday 10th June continued Sarria
Well, today didn't disappointl 20 miles of almost continuous climb, the last 6 very steep and the final 2 pushing the bikes up a rocky goat path, drizzling all the while. Occasional staggering views through clouds. Some almost ripe wild strawberries.
A heartstarting coffee at the top then a descent through freezing horizontal rain down to Tricastella for 9 euro blowout lunch.
Now in Sarria after 50 demanding miles. Santiago de Compostella now in our sights.
Well, today didn't disappointl 20 miles of almost continuous climb, the last 6 very steep and the final 2 pushing the bikes up a rocky goat path, drizzling all the while. Occasional staggering views through clouds. Some almost ripe wild strawberries.
A heartstarting coffee at the top then a descent through freezing horizontal rain down to Tricastella for 9 euro blowout lunch.
Now in Sarria after 50 demanding miles. Santiago de Compostella now in our sights.
Wednesday 10th June Pedrafita do cebriero
Midday: text from Nick Cornwall
Columbus? Armstrong? Scott? Livingstone? Pah! Lightweights!
We have ridden, pushed, had a pack of mountain dogs run a paw over us, tramped up streams, been in and out of mist, rain, cloud and we have made it to O'Cebreiro!
Pooped but perky.
As the book says: El Camino es tempo de meditacion interior, no itenerario touristico. Same for us, only a bit more swearing.
Downhill now to sun and lunch of hot octopus.
Midday: text from Nick Cornwall
Columbus? Armstrong? Scott? Livingstone? Pah! Lightweights!
We have ridden, pushed, had a pack of mountain dogs run a paw over us, tramped up streams, been in and out of mist, rain, cloud and we have made it to O'Cebreiro!
Pooped but perky.
As the book says: El Camino es tempo de meditacion interior, no itenerario touristico. Same for us, only a bit more swearing.
Downhill now to sun and lunch of hot octopus.
Tuesday, 9 June 2009
Tuesday 9th June 5,000ft!! Villafranca del Biertzo
Well, we killed the first beast, Cruz de Ferro at 5,000ft. Wild cloud shrouded mountains covered in heather and brilliant white broom, followed by a 10 mile downhill swoop. Now at Villafranca del Biertzo with the real killer O'Cebreiro to come - 2,500 climb. Reward for survivors is pulpo a la Galega in Melida at the bottom.
Communal supper in the alberge tonight as the clouds swirl - where is the sun?
8.30 am text from Nick Cornwall Cruz de Ferro
5000 feet and about to descend other side. Mist rain but 2 glowing cojones....
Well, we killed the first beast, Cruz de Ferro at 5,000ft. Wild cloud shrouded mountains covered in heather and brilliant white broom, followed by a 10 mile downhill swoop. Now at Villafranca del Biertzo with the real killer O'Cebreiro to come - 2,500 climb. Reward for survivors is pulpo a la Galega in Melida at the bottom.
Communal supper in the alberge tonight as the clouds swirl - where is the sun?
8.30 am text from Nick Cornwall Cruz de Ferro
5000 feet and about to descend other side. Mist rain but 2 glowing cojones....
Monday, 8 June 2009
Rabanal Monday 8th June
Rabanal tonight, at almost 4000ft and pretty nippy. We have climbed most of today. Hard work after the meseta but good practice for tomorrow's highest climb of the Camino at 5,000 ft.
Wonderful wild lavender fields today, interspersed with broom and heather. Now looking for a warm bar/restaurant for high carb supper.
(Further post at 8.00 pm) I wouldn't say it's cold tonight, but everyone is going to bed in all their clothes.... I replied that it was obviously time for some serious male bonding and that they should snuggle up together. However Nick has just replied Not in a single bunk!!!
Let us hope they get some sleep tonight, a good breakfast and feel ready to tackle the big climb.
Note from Mdme. Blogmaster: When asked if tomorrow's 5,000 ft climb is going to be harder than the Pyranees, the reply comes back "Yes it's higher but more brutish" !!
e-mail received from Nick C. this evening Adds further colour to their current situation:
Rabanal tonight, at almost 4000ft and pretty nippy. We have climbed most of today. Hard work after the meseta but good practice for tomorrow's highest climb of the Camino at 5,000 ft.
Wonderful wild lavender fields today, interspersed with broom and heather. Now looking for a warm bar/restaurant for high carb supper.
(Further post at 8.00 pm) I wouldn't say it's cold tonight, but everyone is going to bed in all their clothes.... I replied that it was obviously time for some serious male bonding and that they should snuggle up together. However Nick has just replied Not in a single bunk!!!
Let us hope they get some sleep tonight, a good breakfast and feel ready to tackle the big climb.
Note from Mdme. Blogmaster: When asked if tomorrow's 5,000 ft climb is going to be harder than the Pyranees, the reply comes back "Yes it's higher but more brutish" !!
e-mail received from Nick C. this evening Adds further colour to their current situation:
4000 feet up and flippin freezing! Wet start, then off road and
rocky. Sopa de pescado for lunch in a cafe in Astorga that sold
canaries on the side then 2 hour climb to Rabanal. Brrrr!
Not enough clothes and the beds do not have blankets so we will sleep in the bike gear tonight methinks. Climb to 5000 feet after breakfast and descend to 2000 for the evening so look forward to getting fingers working again moro.
About to eat 4 times our body weight in food.Stunning scenery tho - wild lavender, broom, lots of birds, dramatic skies, too many headwinds and a great way to spend a Mondayx Nick
Capt. Calves says he will call tomorrow - hopefully I will hear that the Pilgrims have made it over the top and are comfortably and safely down the other side ...
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